On Saturday, we had an HIV counseling workshop for most of the day. The workshop was at Sahara, which is an NGO that works with injecting drug users, HIV patients, addiction cases, and battered women. At the end of the workshop we did a bit of role-play, where we got to be the counselors and test our new skills on a few past patients. I volunteered, and of course, got the most difficult case they could think of. He was impossible, argumentative, and thoroughly enjoyed taking a piss out of me. I immediately realized how hard the counselors working at Sahara really have it. When we talk about counseling in the US, it’s usually for things like depression or drug problems. But at Sahara, their kind of counseling is in a league of its own. Try counseling someone who has no family, a serious heroine problem, is HIV +, lives in the underbelly of the slum without a rupee to his name, and dwells in a world where life is cheap and the government doesn’t care…. An entirely different kind of counseling.
After the counseling workshop we went to Khan Market, which is one of the ritzier markets in Delhi. We looked around for a bit, at items that were far too expensive, and ate my new favorite treats- Momos and Papri Chawt. After, we ventured over to this medical art exhibit, where our coordinator’s sister in-law was showcasing her new works. The art was fantastic! Colorful, provocative, and intellectual, the exhibition was a real treat. We then went to “Big Chill”, a restaurant started by an American expat, and filled with delicious American diner food. It was a taste of home in the middle of New Delhi! Natalie and I indulged in a fudge brownie topped with cookie dough ice cream, and I nearly melted…
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Episode 14
On Wednesday we worked in a drop-in center for injecting drug users. We went to the underbelly of Old Delhi, where drug users swarm to score their loot and use. We saw how Sahara was implementing their “harm reduction” program, which focused on needle-exchange, counseling, and oral-substitutes for rehabilitation. It was quite sad, as Sahara use to do much much more for this community, but due to a lack of funds, they have had to severely cut back their program to merely “harm reduction”.
Thursday was definitely another eye opening day as we were working with street children. The street kids live in the slums and squatter settlements, have no parents, and generally beg or pickpocket in order to survive. We went with the Sahara outreach staff to one of the freeway overhangs, where underneath, the street kids congregate. I noticed that every single one of the kids had this wad of cloth held up to their nose, and quickly found out that all of them were sniffing some variation of glue, paint thinner, and nail polish remover. They were all completely strung out… We talked to one of them and asked him a few questions. He did not know his age and after showing him a picture of himself, he didn’t even recognize his own face. We asked him where his parents were, and he pointed to a dark corner where a huddle of adults were sitting doing smack. I guess that would explain it…
We then went to one of the centers for these street kids, where many of them would come to play and act like real kids instead of on the street begging for their drug addict parents. Many of the kids had been abandoned or had run away from their abusive parents. There was one girl who sat huddled in a corner, and after asking about her, I found out that she had run away to the center to avoid being sold into prostitution by her father. She looked no more than 12 years old…
We played with the kids for a few hours, tossing a ball around, doing things that kids their age should be doing! They were all so sweet and absolutely loved having their picture taken. The minute a camera comes out, they all jump around, trying to push the others out of the shot. After playing with the kids for a while, a woman came into the center screaming at the volunteers. Apparently she was upset that her kid was in the center playing and not begging on the street for money. She then accused the center of using the children for child labor and spouted some pretty unnerving things. I hope to go back to the center and work with the kids for a while. It was really fun interacting with them and they could even understand some of my Hindi!
Thursday was definitely another eye opening day as we were working with street children. The street kids live in the slums and squatter settlements, have no parents, and generally beg or pickpocket in order to survive. We went with the Sahara outreach staff to one of the freeway overhangs, where underneath, the street kids congregate. I noticed that every single one of the kids had this wad of cloth held up to their nose, and quickly found out that all of them were sniffing some variation of glue, paint thinner, and nail polish remover. They were all completely strung out… We talked to one of them and asked him a few questions. He did not know his age and after showing him a picture of himself, he didn’t even recognize his own face. We asked him where his parents were, and he pointed to a dark corner where a huddle of adults were sitting doing smack. I guess that would explain it…
We then went to one of the centers for these street kids, where many of them would come to play and act like real kids instead of on the street begging for their drug addict parents. Many of the kids had been abandoned or had run away from their abusive parents. There was one girl who sat huddled in a corner, and after asking about her, I found out that she had run away to the center to avoid being sold into prostitution by her father. She looked no more than 12 years old…
We played with the kids for a few hours, tossing a ball around, doing things that kids their age should be doing! They were all so sweet and absolutely loved having their picture taken. The minute a camera comes out, they all jump around, trying to push the others out of the shot. After playing with the kids for a while, a woman came into the center screaming at the volunteers. Apparently she was upset that her kid was in the center playing and not begging on the street for money. She then accused the center of using the children for child labor and spouted some pretty unnerving things. I hope to go back to the center and work with the kids for a while. It was really fun interacting with them and they could even understand some of my Hindi!
Episode 13
On Monday and Tuesday we went to Michael’s Care Home, which is a center for HIV+ patients to receive care and counseling. We spend most of the time with the HIV specialist and he gave us a detailed lecture on HIV in India. We learned all about the different drugs they are using, how long they have been available, and what the government is doing about HIV. We also shadowed the doc and spoke with a few of the patients and heard their stories. Most of them were truckers, and one in particular told us how AIDS had already killed three of his friends. It was really nice to speak with the patients about their treatment and hear about the stigma and discrimination that they face. After watching the doctor, it became very apparent that as a doctor dealing with HIV patients, you cant just be a medical practitioner, but you have to be a healer, repairing all kinds of emotional and physical wounds that manifest from the disease.
On Tuesday afternoon, after leaving Michael’s Care Home, we visited one of the worst slums I have seen yet. We started our visit at what they call “Chicken Street”, where the slum dwellers collect scrap chicken skin, eyes, and carcasses to boil down into something they sell for dirt-cheap. This chicken “meat” is used in cheap street food like kebabs and momos. Needless to say, I will be sticking to veg momos for the rest of my stay… As we walked into the slum, the smell of rotting carcasses filled my nostrils, and I came very close to passing out. Numerous little children came to greet us, treading over the mountains of chicken skin and feathers (barefoot of course), while their parents manually shredded the chicken bits and threw them into pot. I couldn’t believe that people actually live like this. The structures were much dirtier and smaller than the ones we had seen before, and the sewers were essentially open trenches that ran throughout the tiny passageways. This was by far the most difficult site yet, the scent and image of this place is seared forever into my brain.
On Tuesday afternoon, after leaving Michael’s Care Home, we visited one of the worst slums I have seen yet. We started our visit at what they call “Chicken Street”, where the slum dwellers collect scrap chicken skin, eyes, and carcasses to boil down into something they sell for dirt-cheap. This chicken “meat” is used in cheap street food like kebabs and momos. Needless to say, I will be sticking to veg momos for the rest of my stay… As we walked into the slum, the smell of rotting carcasses filled my nostrils, and I came very close to passing out. Numerous little children came to greet us, treading over the mountains of chicken skin and feathers (barefoot of course), while their parents manually shredded the chicken bits and threw them into pot. I couldn’t believe that people actually live like this. The structures were much dirtier and smaller than the ones we had seen before, and the sewers were essentially open trenches that ran throughout the tiny passageways. This was by far the most difficult site yet, the scent and image of this place is seared forever into my brain.
Episode 12
On Sunday, we decided to do some serious site seeing. We started by going to the government sector and seeing the Parliament buildings, president’s house, and the India gate. It was definitely interesting to see how much the government spends on itself, and how little it spends on everyone else. At the suggestion of our coordinator, we decided to check out the Mughal gardens, which is the president’s private garden and is closed to the general public minus a few days out of the year. Sunday happened to be one of those opportune days… Or so we thought. After being ripped off by an auto, we finally found the Mughal gardens, and the line was nearly a mile long. The hoards of school children and families swamped the entrance, and proceeded with the usual style of Indian queuing, (aka mob). Luckily, one of the coordinator’s from another program was with us for the day, and was well versed in this skill and quickly ushered us through the front of the line. The gardens were a bit disappointing and the massive crowds didn’t help. To make matters worse, it was one of those days where I felt quite out of place. People stare constantly, its something I’ve had to get use to. At home, I am not tall, but in India, I am a giant and taller than most men. My pasty white skin and freakish height makes me stick out like a sore thumb. I generally just look down and find my happy place, but on this day, entire busses filled with school kids decided to point me out yelling “hello! How are you?”, laughing hysterically. Nonetheless, I was ready to leave the Mughal Gardens…
We then went to the National Museum and then to Gandhi Smriti, the site where Gandhi was murdered and now serves as a memorial. It was a lovely memorial and I really enjoyed reading the hallways filled with his quotes and philosophy. There was one that sticks out in my mind and goes as follows:
Those who own money now, are asked to behave like trustees holding their riches on behalf of the poor. You may say that trusteeship is a legal fiction. But if people meditate over it constantly and try to act up to it, then life on earth would be governed by far more love than it is at present. Absolute trusteeship is an abstraction like Euclid’s definition of a point, and is equally unattainable. But if we strive for it, we shall be able to go further in realizing state of equality on earth than by any other method
-MK Gandhi
A quote I continue to ponder….
We then went to the National Museum and then to Gandhi Smriti, the site where Gandhi was murdered and now serves as a memorial. It was a lovely memorial and I really enjoyed reading the hallways filled with his quotes and philosophy. There was one that sticks out in my mind and goes as follows:
Those who own money now, are asked to behave like trustees holding their riches on behalf of the poor. You may say that trusteeship is a legal fiction. But if people meditate over it constantly and try to act up to it, then life on earth would be governed by far more love than it is at present. Absolute trusteeship is an abstraction like Euclid’s definition of a point, and is equally unattainable. But if we strive for it, we shall be able to go further in realizing state of equality on earth than by any other method
-MK Gandhi
A quote I continue to ponder….
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Episode 10
On Wednesday evening, I started feeling a little uneasy after our rural visit. That uneasiness quickly evolved into that famous Indian sickness that strikes down most travelers at some point. I finally got what everyone warned me about... They say Montezuma’s revenge is bad, but let me tell you, Mother India is far more revengeful. After a horrible night of paying my dues to the porcelain god, I woke up exhausted and fluidless. My wonderful auntie and uncle (what you call your host family in India) took great care of me all day on Thursday, and truly made me feel as if I was their own. I really hated having to stay home, but it was nice to finally have a quiet moment to digest all that had happened in the last 2 weeks. Quiet moments are few and far between here, but once you finally get one, you begin to realize the immensity of this experience. I'm sure there will be other quiet moments, where what I think just happened meets reality, and crystallizes into a beloved memory.
I woke up on Friday feeling MUCH better, and was ready to embark on yet another interesting day. First, we visited one of the urban slums in Chandigarh to evaluate one of the women’s reproductive health programs. Sadly, the program was most definitely not working… The program set out to improve maternal and infant health, push for institutional deliveries, and provide pre and ante natal care. After speaking with a number of pregnant women, we found out that many of the women were not having institutional deliveries and had little to no knowledge of reproductive health care. Yet, the most alarming thing was that not a single woman knew about family planning methods. A program meant for reproductive health, and not a single woman knew about family planning. It was really quite tragic to see hundreds of little children running around, playing in trash, with no shoes or pants, no one watching them, and putting whatever they could find in their mouths. Many of the mothers had six or so children, and were yet again pregnant because the six of their children were girls and they were not going to stop until they got a boy. Another tragic reality… 4,5,6 little children with barely enough to eat, no chance of education, and born into a slum with very little hope for the future. What does prenatal or infant care matter if you don’t have family planning? Here was a day where you saw the crux of the perpetuation of poverty and the sad realities of gender inequity.
After the slum visit, we met with the director of the NGO, who really put everything in perspective. He was very aware that some of his programs were not working and told us the main constraint to their improvement, the government. He was a really inspirational person, had this great critical eye, and an uncanny ability to see the bigger picture. I really enjoyed our visit with him.
We then hopped on a train and began our trek back to Delhi. I awoke from a fairly deep nap on the train to the hustle and shouting of about 10 young boys ages 8-16. They had these enormous bags over their shoulders and were scouring the train for any left cookies, water bottles, tea packets, and of course belongings forgotten passengers. If you happen to be one of those unlucky people to leave a purse or cell phone on the train, consider it gone... The street kids live at the train station, and like vultures wait for most of the passengers to get off so they can pick up any left over loot and sell it on the streets. A rude awakening… Welcome back to Delhi. Yet for all its madness, I was glad to be back. Like any other city, Delhi has a pulse, a character; it’s a big playground that I am eager to continue exploring.
I woke up on Friday feeling MUCH better, and was ready to embark on yet another interesting day. First, we visited one of the urban slums in Chandigarh to evaluate one of the women’s reproductive health programs. Sadly, the program was most definitely not working… The program set out to improve maternal and infant health, push for institutional deliveries, and provide pre and ante natal care. After speaking with a number of pregnant women, we found out that many of the women were not having institutional deliveries and had little to no knowledge of reproductive health care. Yet, the most alarming thing was that not a single woman knew about family planning methods. A program meant for reproductive health, and not a single woman knew about family planning. It was really quite tragic to see hundreds of little children running around, playing in trash, with no shoes or pants, no one watching them, and putting whatever they could find in their mouths. Many of the mothers had six or so children, and were yet again pregnant because the six of their children were girls and they were not going to stop until they got a boy. Another tragic reality… 4,5,6 little children with barely enough to eat, no chance of education, and born into a slum with very little hope for the future. What does prenatal or infant care matter if you don’t have family planning? Here was a day where you saw the crux of the perpetuation of poverty and the sad realities of gender inequity.
After the slum visit, we met with the director of the NGO, who really put everything in perspective. He was very aware that some of his programs were not working and told us the main constraint to their improvement, the government. He was a really inspirational person, had this great critical eye, and an uncanny ability to see the bigger picture. I really enjoyed our visit with him.
We then hopped on a train and began our trek back to Delhi. I awoke from a fairly deep nap on the train to the hustle and shouting of about 10 young boys ages 8-16. They had these enormous bags over their shoulders and were scouring the train for any left cookies, water bottles, tea packets, and of course belongings forgotten passengers. If you happen to be one of those unlucky people to leave a purse or cell phone on the train, consider it gone... The street kids live at the train station, and like vultures wait for most of the passengers to get off so they can pick up any left over loot and sell it on the streets. A rude awakening… Welcome back to Delhi. Yet for all its madness, I was glad to be back. Like any other city, Delhi has a pulse, a character; it’s a big playground that I am eager to continue exploring.
Episode 9
On Tuesday, we went and visited one of the truck stops in a very poor area. In India, truck routes are key to the spread of HIV/AIDS. While at the truck stop, we visited one of the centers for female sex workers and had a long conversation with a few of the sex workers as well as some of the peer advisers who work for the NGO. SWACH has set up these centers in order to educate a few sex workers in HIV, STI’s, and safe sex practices so that they may be educators for other sex workers in the area. It was a fascinating day as we got to hear their stories and listen to their struggles. Many of the women live in the slums, were widows and had no other means of providing for their children. After spending a few hours with them, their stories and lives become personal, they are real people with issues that we couldn't even imagine at home. I really enjoyed speaking with them and getting to know a few of them.
On Wednesday we went to one of the very rural areas, where we saw the different programs that SWACH had for adolescents and rural health. The most interesting part was seeing the struggle that these health workers face in the rural areas, where resources and education are lacking. The same systems and programs that work in urban areas can in no way function in some of these rural parts. Providing a meaningful and sustainable health program in these areas takes ingenuity, determination, and an open mind. Again, my respect for those working in this field grew immensely. While in the village, we visited one of the adolescent peer educator meetings, where youngsters would come to learn about a wide variety of issues and would pass the information on to other children in the village. Today’s Topic- Global Warming…. It was so odd coming from a place where we drive polluting cars, waste uncanny amounts of water, and dump countless chemicals into oceans, rivers, and fertile lands. And here I was, listening to these 15 or so teenagers talking about what their village can do to curb global warming. A village who has very few cars and is forced by necessity to use its resources wisely, how can this village help prevent the climate change that people like me have caused. Another one of those irreplaceable reality checks....
On Wednesday we went to one of the very rural areas, where we saw the different programs that SWACH had for adolescents and rural health. The most interesting part was seeing the struggle that these health workers face in the rural areas, where resources and education are lacking. The same systems and programs that work in urban areas can in no way function in some of these rural parts. Providing a meaningful and sustainable health program in these areas takes ingenuity, determination, and an open mind. Again, my respect for those working in this field grew immensely. While in the village, we visited one of the adolescent peer educator meetings, where youngsters would come to learn about a wide variety of issues and would pass the information on to other children in the village. Today’s Topic- Global Warming…. It was so odd coming from a place where we drive polluting cars, waste uncanny amounts of water, and dump countless chemicals into oceans, rivers, and fertile lands. And here I was, listening to these 15 or so teenagers talking about what their village can do to curb global warming. A village who has very few cars and is forced by necessity to use its resources wisely, how can this village help prevent the climate change that people like me have caused. Another one of those irreplaceable reality checks....
Episode 8
On Monday we set out for Chandigarh, which is about a 4 hr train ride from Delhi. It was such a nice surprise when we arrived, as Chandigarh is much cleaner and a bit more modern than Delhi. The air is much less polluted and does not have that distinct odor, the roads are far less congested, and the houses and buildings are quite modern. Although I love Delhi’s character, Chandigarh was a very nice break. For the rest of the day we met with our NGO, Survival for Women and Children’s Health (SWACH), and they gave us a presentation on the different programs that they are running.
Later in the afternoon, we went to the Chandigarh Rock Garden, which at first appeared to literally be just that, a bunch of rocks in a garden. But in fact it was quite neat. The artist made all of the sculptures from trash and waste, such as old plates, used charcoal, old electrical sockets, and even discarded bangles. There were numerous sculptures of animals and people as well as a number of architectural works. A very crafty way of using trash…
We then retired to our guest house, where we met our host family. Our host family also runs their own NGO, providing education to slum children, and they are quite possibly the nicest people you could imagine. They have 2 children and a large house, where they rent out the rest of the rooms to students or young professionals at an affordable price. But most of all they bring you in as part of their family. They have made us feel so welcome, and their work in education is truly inspiring.
Later in the afternoon, we went to the Chandigarh Rock Garden, which at first appeared to literally be just that, a bunch of rocks in a garden. But in fact it was quite neat. The artist made all of the sculptures from trash and waste, such as old plates, used charcoal, old electrical sockets, and even discarded bangles. There were numerous sculptures of animals and people as well as a number of architectural works. A very crafty way of using trash…
We then retired to our guest house, where we met our host family. Our host family also runs their own NGO, providing education to slum children, and they are quite possibly the nicest people you could imagine. They have 2 children and a large house, where they rent out the rest of the rooms to students or young professionals at an affordable price. But most of all they bring you in as part of their family. They have made us feel so welcome, and their work in education is truly inspiring.
Episode 7
Over the weekend, we decided to do some traveling. We first went to Jaipur, the Pink City, which was absolutely beautiful and reminded you of something straight out of Aladdin. After a very foggy drive, we reached the Amber Fort at about 11 30 am and walked around for about 3 hours. Just my luck, we arrived too late to take the elephant ride up to the fort… I was quite disappointed, however now even more determined to get my elephant fix. The fort is nestled in the Rajastani hillside just outside of Jaipur, and consists of an enormous palace that was once for the king and his 14 wives. Each wife had her own apartment and there was a secret passageway that connected all the rooms to the king’s quarters so he could visit them at his leisure…. Crafty bastard. After spending some time at the fort and spending way too much money at the Rajastani craft emporium, we headed into Jaipur and spent the day walking around the dazzling pink city.
The next day, we got up bright and early and drove about 4 hrs to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. Agra itself is nothing special, but it contains quite a gem. Sunday February 14, 2010, Valentine’s Day, and I was standing in front of one of the greatest testaments to eternal love. I don’t care what anyone says, the Taj Mahal really is all its cracked up to be. Standing amidst a garden of greens, pinks, purples, and blues, the Taj Mahal is a glistening white marble structure that serves no other purpose, but to house the slumbering king and his beloved wife. Someone once called it “a teardrop of the face of eternity”… After ooing and awing for a while, we finally decided to wait in the enormous line to go inside. Another thing I’ve learned about India, the concept of the “que” does not exist. Everyone essentially mobs the front of the line, cutting relentlessly without any method or organization. I would have to say that one thing I look forward to when I get home is the ability to wait in a fair and orderly line.
The next day, we got up bright and early and drove about 4 hrs to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. Agra itself is nothing special, but it contains quite a gem. Sunday February 14, 2010, Valentine’s Day, and I was standing in front of one of the greatest testaments to eternal love. I don’t care what anyone says, the Taj Mahal really is all its cracked up to be. Standing amidst a garden of greens, pinks, purples, and blues, the Taj Mahal is a glistening white marble structure that serves no other purpose, but to house the slumbering king and his beloved wife. Someone once called it “a teardrop of the face of eternity”… After ooing and awing for a while, we finally decided to wait in the enormous line to go inside. Another thing I’ve learned about India, the concept of the “que” does not exist. Everyone essentially mobs the front of the line, cutting relentlessly without any method or organization. I would have to say that one thing I look forward to when I get home is the ability to wait in a fair and orderly line.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Episode 6
Yesterday we visited a slum in Delhi. The slum sits next to the train tracks in a fairly well to-do government area. The slum has been there for over 30 years and most of those who live there built the structures that they call home. Considering its location, a corporation in connection with the government has decided to put a 5-star hotel on the land that sits right next to the slum. Many of the slum-dwellers work at the construction site and provide an arsenal of cheap labor. Those who do not work on the construction site are mostly trash collectors, and sift through mountains of trash, removing plastic and cardboard that is to be sold to recycling companies. However once the hotel is completed, the entire slum will be demolished, and of course the tragedy is that almost 1000 people will now have no where to go and will be provided no compensation by the government. How ironic, that the people who help to build the hotel will be displaced by its completion.
We walked around the slum for a while with our guide and spoke with a few of the people who lived there. They were all unbelievably nice, and with what little they had offered us tea and bread. We found out that many of them live on about $60/month for a family of four… That’s about 50 cents/day/person. I’m sure those who are building the hotel can relate…. We spoke with one family for about an hour and they told us their story. A woman and her husband moved with their 8 children from a rural village to New Delhi to find work. She explained to us that she was not educated about sexual health, and because she couldn’t afford the hysterectomy, she thought she had no way of controlling her family. The family lived in this tiny brick room with a sheet metal roof; the room was no bigger than 10ftx8ft for her entire family. She explained to us that her husband had been in a construction accident and broke his spinal cord, and now with the hotel they did not know what they were going to do. She was going to have to take her kids out of school so they could all go to work to make up for the lost wage earned by their father. There were numerous stories like this one; I felt simultaneously enraged, saddened, and disturbed.
Today we went to Apollo hospital and shadowed one of the HIV specialists. Apollo is a private/corporate hospital, a sharp difference from what we had seen before. Many of the HIV cases we saw were co-infections with Tuberculosis, and some of them were quite serious. With many of the cases, the patient would begin to feel better and so they would stop their anti-retroviral treatments despite the doctors orders, and their HIV would quickly progress to AIDS. It was an interesting day, but I have to say I much prefer working in the slum. Many of the people who came into Apollo were quite wealthy, as they could afford the expensive treatments, and even with their privilege would not follow the regimen that so many would die to have….
We walked around the slum for a while with our guide and spoke with a few of the people who lived there. They were all unbelievably nice, and with what little they had offered us tea and bread. We found out that many of them live on about $60/month for a family of four… That’s about 50 cents/day/person. I’m sure those who are building the hotel can relate…. We spoke with one family for about an hour and they told us their story. A woman and her husband moved with their 8 children from a rural village to New Delhi to find work. She explained to us that she was not educated about sexual health, and because she couldn’t afford the hysterectomy, she thought she had no way of controlling her family. The family lived in this tiny brick room with a sheet metal roof; the room was no bigger than 10ftx8ft for her entire family. She explained to us that her husband had been in a construction accident and broke his spinal cord, and now with the hotel they did not know what they were going to do. She was going to have to take her kids out of school so they could all go to work to make up for the lost wage earned by their father. There were numerous stories like this one; I felt simultaneously enraged, saddened, and disturbed.
Today we went to Apollo hospital and shadowed one of the HIV specialists. Apollo is a private/corporate hospital, a sharp difference from what we had seen before. Many of the HIV cases we saw were co-infections with Tuberculosis, and some of them were quite serious. With many of the cases, the patient would begin to feel better and so they would stop their anti-retroviral treatments despite the doctors orders, and their HIV would quickly progress to AIDS. It was an interesting day, but I have to say I much prefer working in the slum. Many of the people who came into Apollo were quite wealthy, as they could afford the expensive treatments, and even with their privilege would not follow the regimen that so many would die to have….
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Episode 5
Pathway to Pune (and beyond).
Episode 5
On Wednesday we worked in a rural medical center with a very inspirational doctor who showed us a day at his clinic. The clinic serves very poor areas of the city at very low cost, and the physician we worked with donates his time and absolutely lives for what he does. We saw numerous cases, most of which were gallstones or kidney stones from the rich-ghee filled food. However, there was one case that absolutely stuck out in my mind.
A young woman, no older than me, came in with a very large kidney stone (probably the size of a quarter). The woman was extremely poor, had two children, and had been left by her husband. She came with her mother who had mortgaged her earrings just to pay the nominal clinic fee of 30 rupees (less than a dollar). The kidney stone had gotten so large that the young woman could barely get out of bed and was in an exorbitant amount of pain. As her eyes filled with tears, the mother of the young woman pleaded with the doctor, as she was in debt and didn’t know how she was going to pay for the surgery. The doctor then handed the technician a wad of cash, and told the woman that she did not need to worry, and that he would take care of it. The mother held the doctors hands, with tears running down her cheek, and thanked him profusely. The look on that woman’s face was priceless, and you realize that with such extreme poverty, dilemmas such as medical problems can make or break their lives. After the woman left the room, the doctor turned to us and said, “Of all the pathologies, man’s greatest disease is poverty”. How true a statement indeed. After a day of seeing such cases, it made me wonder why I was born in this skin and not hers.
After our day in the clinic, Natalie and I decided to do some site seeing. Our first stop was Akshadam, an enormous Hindu temple built for Swami Narayan. The temple was unbelievable, decorated with the most ornate carvings and landscaping. Not an inch of stone went without some elaborate depiction or a story. My favorite part of course, was that almost every carving included an elephant in it…. We also visited a few of the exhibitions at the temple, which recounted the story of Swami and some Indian history. The end of the exhibition had some beautiful words about the need for peace in the world and the uselessness of violence. In particular, one that I liked stated, “Man created war, and so he must also eventually pioneer peace”.
After Akshadam, we had some dinner near the Red Fort of Delhi, and after went to a light and sound show at the Red Fort. It was a bit cheesy, but I still enjoyed the lights and seeing the Red Fort illuminated with color.
Episode 5
On Wednesday we worked in a rural medical center with a very inspirational doctor who showed us a day at his clinic. The clinic serves very poor areas of the city at very low cost, and the physician we worked with donates his time and absolutely lives for what he does. We saw numerous cases, most of which were gallstones or kidney stones from the rich-ghee filled food. However, there was one case that absolutely stuck out in my mind.
A young woman, no older than me, came in with a very large kidney stone (probably the size of a quarter). The woman was extremely poor, had two children, and had been left by her husband. She came with her mother who had mortgaged her earrings just to pay the nominal clinic fee of 30 rupees (less than a dollar). The kidney stone had gotten so large that the young woman could barely get out of bed and was in an exorbitant amount of pain. As her eyes filled with tears, the mother of the young woman pleaded with the doctor, as she was in debt and didn’t know how she was going to pay for the surgery. The doctor then handed the technician a wad of cash, and told the woman that she did not need to worry, and that he would take care of it. The mother held the doctors hands, with tears running down her cheek, and thanked him profusely. The look on that woman’s face was priceless, and you realize that with such extreme poverty, dilemmas such as medical problems can make or break their lives. After the woman left the room, the doctor turned to us and said, “Of all the pathologies, man’s greatest disease is poverty”. How true a statement indeed. After a day of seeing such cases, it made me wonder why I was born in this skin and not hers.
After our day in the clinic, Natalie and I decided to do some site seeing. Our first stop was Akshadam, an enormous Hindu temple built for Swami Narayan. The temple was unbelievable, decorated with the most ornate carvings and landscaping. Not an inch of stone went without some elaborate depiction or a story. My favorite part of course, was that almost every carving included an elephant in it…. We also visited a few of the exhibitions at the temple, which recounted the story of Swami and some Indian history. The end of the exhibition had some beautiful words about the need for peace in the world and the uselessness of violence. In particular, one that I liked stated, “Man created war, and so he must also eventually pioneer peace”.
After Akshadam, we had some dinner near the Red Fort of Delhi, and after went to a light and sound show at the Red Fort. It was a bit cheesy, but I still enjoyed the lights and seeing the Red Fort illuminated with color.
Episode 4
The past few days have been very interesting, and seem to have just flown by. The other student, my roommate is great; we are oddly similar and are both very anxious to do some traveling. However, we have started a bad habit of waking up at about 2 in the morning and talking until about 4am. Although we have really started to get to know each other, it also makes for rather long days.
For the past two days we have worked with Sulabh Int, an Indian based NGO (non-governmental organization, like a non-profit) that has taken Gandhi’s vision and turned it into a multifaceted intervention that has changed the lives of millions. The founder, Dr Pathak, took Gandhi’s concept of non-violence and created an organization that truly practices what it preaches, striving for both social and environmental justice. Dr Pathak, a Brahman by birth, started by trying to help some of India’s untouchable caste or scavengers. This group of people was forced to go from home to home and clean the toilet pots of others, and carry the excrement in buckets on top of their heads. They were often forced into the poorest regions of the town, stricken by perpetual disease, and discriminated against in every way. At one point they were forced to wear bells around their necks, so to alert others when they were coming. They were disallowed from all other professions, and in order to prevent contact, food, water, and money were thrown at them. Dr Pathak realized that in order to help these people, he first had to rid of the pots that the scavengers were forced to clean- an indirect approach to a seemingly impossible task. He created the Sulabh toilet, an environmentally friendly, low cost, 2 pot toilet system, where excrement is deposited in one pot while the other is allowed to decompose into manure. These toilets tackled 2 big problems; the social injustice faced by the untouchable caste as well as provided a much-needed technology for proper sanitation. The toilets cost about 1 rupee, and the profits are used to train these scavengers in other professions. Sulabh toilets are used throughout India and in numerous other countries, and have turned into a fully recyclable, eco friendly technology where the gas, solid waste, and wastewater are all fully recycled. The profits from these toilet complexes are then used to fund a school for the scavenger’s children, multiple vocational training centers, and provide small loans for the scavengers to start their own businesses. On Tuesday, we visited one of the first training centers in Alwar, where the ladies who were once forced into such a degrading trade were practicing their new skills in tailoring, embroidery, sewing, and even beautician services. At the Sulabh center, the women also prepared food items such as Papadums and noodles, which they would sell at the market. The people who once wouldn’t even touch these women, now buy food items that they prepare. All the women spoke of their new professions with such pride and happiness, and showed off their English that they had learned in the school.
While in the town of Alwar, we also visited the King’s Palace; an enormous Rajasthani structure nestled in the hills. It was very beautiful and a very nice break from the Delhi urban sprawl. While walking up to the palace, a wedding procession passed us, and let me say that weddings in India are a BIG deal. The procession immediately invited Natalie and me to join and kept yelling for us to dance with them. We were also doused in shaving cream and confetti as part of the ceremony. A fun experience nonetheless.
For the past two days we have worked with Sulabh Int, an Indian based NGO (non-governmental organization, like a non-profit) that has taken Gandhi’s vision and turned it into a multifaceted intervention that has changed the lives of millions. The founder, Dr Pathak, took Gandhi’s concept of non-violence and created an organization that truly practices what it preaches, striving for both social and environmental justice. Dr Pathak, a Brahman by birth, started by trying to help some of India’s untouchable caste or scavengers. This group of people was forced to go from home to home and clean the toilet pots of others, and carry the excrement in buckets on top of their heads. They were often forced into the poorest regions of the town, stricken by perpetual disease, and discriminated against in every way. At one point they were forced to wear bells around their necks, so to alert others when they were coming. They were disallowed from all other professions, and in order to prevent contact, food, water, and money were thrown at them. Dr Pathak realized that in order to help these people, he first had to rid of the pots that the scavengers were forced to clean- an indirect approach to a seemingly impossible task. He created the Sulabh toilet, an environmentally friendly, low cost, 2 pot toilet system, where excrement is deposited in one pot while the other is allowed to decompose into manure. These toilets tackled 2 big problems; the social injustice faced by the untouchable caste as well as provided a much-needed technology for proper sanitation. The toilets cost about 1 rupee, and the profits are used to train these scavengers in other professions. Sulabh toilets are used throughout India and in numerous other countries, and have turned into a fully recyclable, eco friendly technology where the gas, solid waste, and wastewater are all fully recycled. The profits from these toilet complexes are then used to fund a school for the scavenger’s children, multiple vocational training centers, and provide small loans for the scavengers to start their own businesses. On Tuesday, we visited one of the first training centers in Alwar, where the ladies who were once forced into such a degrading trade were practicing their new skills in tailoring, embroidery, sewing, and even beautician services. At the Sulabh center, the women also prepared food items such as Papadums and noodles, which they would sell at the market. The people who once wouldn’t even touch these women, now buy food items that they prepare. All the women spoke of their new professions with such pride and happiness, and showed off their English that they had learned in the school.
While in the town of Alwar, we also visited the King’s Palace; an enormous Rajasthani structure nestled in the hills. It was very beautiful and a very nice break from the Delhi urban sprawl. While walking up to the palace, a wedding procession passed us, and let me say that weddings in India are a BIG deal. The procession immediately invited Natalie and me to join and kept yelling for us to dance with them. We were also doused in shaving cream and confetti as part of the ceremony. A fun experience nonetheless.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Episode 3
I finally got up at about 1pm the next day and met my coordinator. She was immediately very welcoming and whisked me upstairs to meet her family. We talked for about an hour and they helped me begin to start thinking about where I want to travel on my weekends and at the end of my trip. Traveling... My excitement instantly spiked... I then came downstairs and had a fantastic lunch courtesy of my caretaker, delicious Indian veg cuisine. I am really enjoying the food, it’s all very different and has yet to make me sick.
My coordinator has been so wonderful these past few days, as the other student is arriving later, I have been kind of on my own waiting for rotations to start on Monday. She has offered to take me everywhere, and like a wide-eyed three year old, she could say we were going to the dump and I would be thrilled to go. Everything is so new and different; I don’t care where she takes me as long as I get to see a new part of Delhi. Later that evening, she and her husband took me to a local fish market. The fish are quite literally straight out of the water and the chickens are butchered on the spot. In the US, we are so far removed from everything we eat- packaged, frozen, pre-cut. I watched as one of the butchers killed, de-feathered, and boned the chicken into what we know as chicken meat. Yet, the greatest part of all was he did it with the knife between his toes, and carefully used both hands to take the bird apart with utmost precision. After that we went to a shopping market, where I had my first Indian street food- Momo. Little steamed dumplings filled with chicken or veggies served with a spicy siracha-like hot sauce. Delicious. I finally went back to the apartment and fell asleep almost immediately.
The following morning I went with my coordinator and her husband to the local forest/ park in Saket. Instead of designated, pre-planned parks like we have in Western cities, the place was essentially a spot where they let the local vegetation grow wild. We briskly walked through the bamboo forest and watched the orange sun greet the day. I really enjoyed that walk and hope to try and go every morning, a nice ritual, somewhat cleansing and meditative.
After our walk we went to the hospital to meet our medical director, here I also met the other student I will be working with. Tomorrow we start our program at Sulabh International, an NGO that tries to rehabilitate “scavengers”. These people are part of what we may know as the untouchable caste, they collect human feces and carry it out in containers on their heads.
I am so happy that I decided to do this, and am experiencing things that I could never dream of. I can’t wait to see what else is in store for me...
My coordinator has been so wonderful these past few days, as the other student is arriving later, I have been kind of on my own waiting for rotations to start on Monday. She has offered to take me everywhere, and like a wide-eyed three year old, she could say we were going to the dump and I would be thrilled to go. Everything is so new and different; I don’t care where she takes me as long as I get to see a new part of Delhi. Later that evening, she and her husband took me to a local fish market. The fish are quite literally straight out of the water and the chickens are butchered on the spot. In the US, we are so far removed from everything we eat- packaged, frozen, pre-cut. I watched as one of the butchers killed, de-feathered, and boned the chicken into what we know as chicken meat. Yet, the greatest part of all was he did it with the knife between his toes, and carefully used both hands to take the bird apart with utmost precision. After that we went to a shopping market, where I had my first Indian street food- Momo. Little steamed dumplings filled with chicken or veggies served with a spicy siracha-like hot sauce. Delicious. I finally went back to the apartment and fell asleep almost immediately.
The following morning I went with my coordinator and her husband to the local forest/ park in Saket. Instead of designated, pre-planned parks like we have in Western cities, the place was essentially a spot where they let the local vegetation grow wild. We briskly walked through the bamboo forest and watched the orange sun greet the day. I really enjoyed that walk and hope to try and go every morning, a nice ritual, somewhat cleansing and meditative.
After our walk we went to the hospital to meet our medical director, here I also met the other student I will be working with. Tomorrow we start our program at Sulabh International, an NGO that tries to rehabilitate “scavengers”. These people are part of what we may know as the untouchable caste, they collect human feces and carry it out in containers on their heads.
I am so happy that I decided to do this, and am experiencing things that I could never dream of. I can’t wait to see what else is in store for me...
Episode 2
After about an hour and a half of sleep, I said goodbye to the cushy bed in my hotel room and rushed to Heathrow airport. Naturally, given my Davis gene for impulsive earliness, I ended up sitting in Heathrow for about 2 hours before my gate even opened. The laws of aero-transit must have sensed my anticipation and of course, my flight was delayed. On the plane, I sat next to a really nice man who was going home after a business trip in New York. When choosing a film to watch, he pointed me towards the Bollywood film “Wanted”, most definitely an entertaining choice as I watched the Indian version of Vin Diesel beat up thugs with his big muscles and dashing good looks. I was so exhausted that I finally slept a little, and soon we arrived in Delhi.
As I began to see the lights of Delhi and we descended into the urban space, a sudden surge of shock finally hit me. “What the hell am I doing here”… I quickly set aside my anxiety and got off the plane, went through customs, and collected my luggage. I would say the one thing I was most nervous about was meeting up with my driver, who was to collect me at the arrival terminal at 2 am. And of course, I couldn’t find him. Slight panic. But the one thing I am beginning to realize about India is panic will get you nowhere fast. I sat down, called my coordinator, and low and behold a tall young man with “Gwenth” scribbled on a piece of paper found the half asleep girl with the enormous backpack.
We then got in his car and the real adventure began. After jetting out of the airport parking lot, I also quickly realized that there are no rules on Indian highways. Honking is used more frequently than turn signals and there is no “right of way” for anyone. You think that you can mentally prepare yourself for a trip like this, at least a little, but nothing is as shocking as those first 30 min. That first car ride on the dirt roads, whiff of Delhi air, or the first scrap metal structure tucked on the side of the road with a small light peering from the cracks, indicating that people do in fact live in such places. My respect for those actually working in the field of development and global poverty immediately grew- those who have the ability to live at the extremes of two very different worlds, yet are able to imagine a place in between.
When I finally got to the apartment, it was very different from what I expected, but I was pleasantly surprised. It was very simple, but clean, and I went to my room to get settled. It was about 4 am by the time I finally got into bed, and you would never believe the ruckus that was occurring outside my room. Windows in India are in no way sound proof, and you hear EVERYTHING. Thank goodness for the modern marvel they call earplugs.
As I began to see the lights of Delhi and we descended into the urban space, a sudden surge of shock finally hit me. “What the hell am I doing here”… I quickly set aside my anxiety and got off the plane, went through customs, and collected my luggage. I would say the one thing I was most nervous about was meeting up with my driver, who was to collect me at the arrival terminal at 2 am. And of course, I couldn’t find him. Slight panic. But the one thing I am beginning to realize about India is panic will get you nowhere fast. I sat down, called my coordinator, and low and behold a tall young man with “Gwenth” scribbled on a piece of paper found the half asleep girl with the enormous backpack.
We then got in his car and the real adventure began. After jetting out of the airport parking lot, I also quickly realized that there are no rules on Indian highways. Honking is used more frequently than turn signals and there is no “right of way” for anyone. You think that you can mentally prepare yourself for a trip like this, at least a little, but nothing is as shocking as those first 30 min. That first car ride on the dirt roads, whiff of Delhi air, or the first scrap metal structure tucked on the side of the road with a small light peering from the cracks, indicating that people do in fact live in such places. My respect for those actually working in the field of development and global poverty immediately grew- those who have the ability to live at the extremes of two very different worlds, yet are able to imagine a place in between.
When I finally got to the apartment, it was very different from what I expected, but I was pleasantly surprised. It was very simple, but clean, and I went to my room to get settled. It was about 4 am by the time I finally got into bed, and you would never believe the ruckus that was occurring outside my room. Windows in India are in no way sound proof, and you hear EVERYTHING. Thank goodness for the modern marvel they call earplugs.
Episode 1
So as I begin my journey to India, I am filled with a combination of anxiousness, excitement, and intrigue. I am well aware that this trip will truly be a life changing experience, and I look forward to the experiences, people, photos, and memories that will ensue. But first, a little background as to the meaning of this blog. In 1942, my grandfather, a young man of about my age and an officer in the British army, was sent to India as part of his tour. Throughout his journey, he wrote fairly detailed memoirs about his adventures in India and Madagascar and he called them “The Pathway to Pune”. So as I begin my own journey to India about 70 years later, I shall call my blog by the same name. Unfortunately, I never had the opportunity to meet my granddad, as he died right before I was born. Yet through his memoirs, I hope to get to know a man that was so dear to my family’s hearts, whilst blazing my own path to “Pune and Beyond”.
Just as he did, I started my journey in England. After getting picked up by my cousin, we spent a few days exploring London. I have most definitely found my new favorite spot in London, BOROUGH MARKET. Filled with cakes, artesian cheeses, meats, fresh fish, and delicious curries, this bustling market sits below the train tracks in Borough, London. After visiting this market twice and having a few heavy nights out with my cousin, we then took a train up to Sheffield to spend a few days with my Nana, Uncle, and my Uncle’s family. It was really nice to see the family, and they showed me a wonderful time as usual. However, it was also difficult to truly enjoy myself with the real adventure just around the corner. I spent many sleepless nights at my Nana’s, looking forward to, but also anxious about what lay ahead.
Just as he did, I started my journey in England. After getting picked up by my cousin, we spent a few days exploring London. I have most definitely found my new favorite spot in London, BOROUGH MARKET. Filled with cakes, artesian cheeses, meats, fresh fish, and delicious curries, this bustling market sits below the train tracks in Borough, London. After visiting this market twice and having a few heavy nights out with my cousin, we then took a train up to Sheffield to spend a few days with my Nana, Uncle, and my Uncle’s family. It was really nice to see the family, and they showed me a wonderful time as usual. However, it was also difficult to truly enjoy myself with the real adventure just around the corner. I spent many sleepless nights at my Nana’s, looking forward to, but also anxious about what lay ahead.
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